Silicones, Sulfates and Choosing the Right Products for Your Hair

As a stylist and salon owner, I’ve spoken to many naturalists about their hair journeys, and one thing I’ve noticed is how fixated people are on sulfate-free shampoos. They hear sulfates are bad, switch products, and expect magic — but soon, they start dealing with dryness, breakage, and thinning even though they’re “doing everything right.”

When I ask what conditioner or leave-in they use, I often find silicones and mineral oil high on the ingredient list. Here’s the issue: while sulfate-free shampoos are gentle and non-stripping, most silicones are not water-soluble. Without an occasional sulfate-based cleanse, these ingredients build up on your strands, blocking moisture and leading to brittleness and breakage.

That’s why many brands include sulfates in their shampoos when their conditioners contain silicones — it keeps the balance.

Now, what exactly are silicones?

They’re ingredients that make hair look smoother, shinier, and frizz-free by coating the strands. This coating gives your hair a sleek, polished appearance and makes detangling easier — but it’s only temporary. Over time, without proper cleansing, buildup begins.

You can spot silicones in your product list by the “-cone” ending — for example, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and Amodimethicone.

So what can you do if you’ve fallen into this trap? You have two options:

Go silicone-free: Clarify your hair with a sulfate shampoo at your salon, then switch to conditioners and moisturizers without silicones.

Keep your products, but clarify regularly: Use a sulfate shampoo every 6–8 weeks to give your hair a clean slate and prevent buildup.

Clarifying is a must in every hair routine — skip it, and your hair may become dry, brittle, and unresponsive no matter what products you use.